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Although it's tempting to check for driver boards by swapping (note some boards have different switch settings), this risks blowing a second board if it's a wiring fault. Guess how I found that out...
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DGqH8LGjZdY 
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Definitely sounds like a motor phase out. Check wiring at the drive end - with power off, unplug the motor connector from the driver board  - you should measure the same resistance, a few ohms,  between adjacent pins and the outermost pins of the connector. I've had a pin go bad on the big D connector on the bottom of the base unit.

You should be able to check for a bad driver using a DMM diode test range - unplug all connectors from the board, check for a single diode drop from 0v to each pin (dmm + to 0V) and +V to each pin ( Dmm - to +ve supply).
I have some spare hybrids if you need one, but check wiring as a short is a likely cause of a blown output.


 
 
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RV Hardware / Re: PCs for RVs
« Last post by dirk1980 on December 10, 2018, 05:40:42 PM »
I swapped the old hard drive for an SSD with an IDE-SATA adapter. There were no problems.

I just wanted to switch to XP.
For the PC hardware I am still looking for a suitable board.
I still have some old ones but they are all at least 10 years old.
4
roger,

If its noisy,
that sounds to me like one of the 5 phases is down.... rather than anything upstream, of the driver module.
once you've heard one, its an unmistakable sound...

it could be a bad connection ( easy enough to check)
a phase gone open circuit in the motor
a driver board.

I would check first by disconnecting the motor connector and checking the resitances of the phases.
I don't know what they should be, but luckily like me you can access a motor that is known to be working to compare meter readings.
If the motor is good,

Obviously check continuity betewen the connector to the motor and the connections in the control box.

then try swapping in a know good driver board

Others might know better ways to check...

Chris
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Hi,
I look after 3 x RV4's and 1 x RV1 at my company. I have a fault with one RV4s where the vacuum head rotation motor is very noisy in operation. When off and disengaged from the computer, the rotation wheel can be rotated by finger and can be felt to be nice and smooth. Previously, the motor was graunchy after a Z axis collision, but this was repaired, corrected and the motor was stripped down for a clean and re-assemble, and confirm there was not anything found to be damaged or anything that could impair the motor.
The graunching noise can be heard on arm warm up or when checking tool pick up, it seems to affect the rotation angle as the placed components that are laid are twisted and poorly aligned. Is it time for a replacement motor - if so, anyone got one? Or is it something on the arm control board that ends up with the wrong voltage being supplied to the motor.

Your experience and suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Regards

Roger
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RV Hardware / Re: PCs for RVs
« Last post by trev on December 07, 2018, 03:40:23 PM »
Really appreciate the information. Found the Raid card on Ebay.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/152988519024

Trev
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RV Hardware / Re: PCs for RVs
« Last post by Cubik on December 07, 2018, 02:56:37 PM »
With regard to Mikes OS that will not boot, I have seen this a few times when copying onto SSD.

I suggest that when you are testing this out to start off with, try installing W98 rather than copying your existing drive. To be honest, its really fast with an SSD, I have built machines from the ground up in 20 mins with an SSD rather than the usual 3 - 4 hours that it takes with an HDD
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RV Hardware / Re: PCs for RVs
« Last post by Cubik on December 07, 2018, 02:48:57 PM »
Im glad I wrote this, it seems like it has sparked some interest!

The reason that I used a raid card is that it has its own BIOS and mounts to the BIOS of the motherboard as "just another drive interface". I have tried other ways to achieve a reliable connection to a SSD, the described method has worked on every motherboard that i have tried so far. 

Another option which works sometimes is to use a PATA > SATA adapter, here is an example:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Livecity-SATA-Converter-Conversion-Adapter/dp/B0787SPXL6/ref=sr_1_30?ie=UTF8&qid=1544190149&sr=8-30&keywords=sata+pata+adapter

As I said, this seems to work with some motherboards but not all. I think this uses the same chipset as the one that Mike suggested.

I have been using WD Green SSD's, I havent tried any others. I like the idea of trying a PATA SSD, I may order one and try it out.

Paul
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RV Hardware / Re: PCs for RVs
« Last post by spiyda on December 02, 2018, 02:00:38 AM »
Those RS  144-8029  SSDs are supposed to handle wear levelling internally to some extent (from the datasheet)
How well is anyone's guess..       I might give it a go just to see..  I'll still have the data stashed away on the original disc, the cloud and my NAS in case it
Its described as a "InnoDisk 1ME IDE DOM 44 Pins 16 GB Industrial SSD Drive "
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RV Hardware / Re: PCs for RVs
« Last post by Gopher on December 01, 2018, 03:23:02 PM »
There is some added risk with SSDs in that Win98 knows NOTHING about TRIM which means the drive won't be able to do its wear levelling properly or at all. Maybe if you disable swap that could mitigate it as there not much disk writing in the machines day to day running. Or how about one of the aforementioned PATA-SATA adaptor cards and a hybrid drive, where (unless I'm mistaken) the drive handles the SSD wear levelling, I would think pretty much the whole system fits in the 8GB cache.
Also don't forget Win98 starts having issues when sporting  512MB+ of ram, some systems that meet the requirements might support & have more than that installed, you can beat it with a stick a little to support more but there is little point.
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