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RV Hardware / Re: Lighting
« Last post by Mike on July 22, 2017, 07:24:31 PM »
Yes it is rather sensitive - the tinted covers are pretty much completely transparent to IR, so they reject fluorescent and LED lighting, but no natural light.
I blinged mine out with LED tape along the frame top and sides to help visibility when setting up, and also put some side-facing LED strip inside the head cover, but there is an issue with the flying cam that it can pick up light differently depending on arm position.
As & when I get round to it I intend to replace the red light on both cameras with much brighter white LEDs and stop the lenses down to make them less sensitive to ambient. I'd guess stopping down the lenses should also increase depth of field.
An IR cut filter on the cameras may also be helpful to reject natural ambient.
RV Hardware / Lighting
« Last post by WillReeve on July 22, 2017, 11:11:02 AM »
My RV doesn’t get much use but was recently needed to make 50 boards so the usual hand-holding I give it was beginning to grate!
What I discovered was the machine ran great sometimes, and others had difficulty with component vision / rejection! Turned out it was ambient light, streaming in through a Velux window above it. The smoked windows didn’t really work in this situation.
I bought a Velux window black out blind, and some strip LED lights which work perfectly. They are remote control and can be adjusted from bright for PCB vision, to a perfect dim for component placement. The strips are on the door so when closed you actually get a quite even diffuse light, independent of arm position.

RV Hardware / Re: RV1s arm connections
« Last post by Mike on July 13, 2017, 05:33:21 PM »
There have been a few variations over the years so hard to be definitive - not sure what connection you're referring to - maybe the camera ?
Worth checking the condition of the main belts in teh base, and that eveything moves freely but I don't think there is anything that will particularly break if not checked before firing up.
Most important thing to do first is to back up the calibration files on the PC.
RV Hardware / RV1s arm connections
« Last post by ColinBarron on July 09, 2017, 09:45:21 PM »
I purchased an RV1s which i split to get it in the car and trailer.  I photographed and marked each connection, but i have missed the single circular connector on the underside of the arm inside the cabinet next to the motors.  There are 2 sockets it could connect into.  The outer socket nearest to the back panel looks cleaner than the inner one so i was tempted to plug it into that one but could someone please confirm that is correct?  Is there a manual showing connections?  The machine has not been used for about seven years. are there any components i should change before i switch on or is it a matter of suck it and see?
RV Hardware / Re: First setup of my new RV1s - and a few general question
« Last post by Gopher on July 04, 2017, 03:50:16 PM »
It's been 5 years since I moved on from one of these machines, but I always used RVGerber as that is how the training worked and in turn that is how data came to me. For RVGerber you primarily need the silkscreen layer and the paste layer, RVgerber attempts a crude form of OCR to match identifiers in your BOM against labels in the silkscreen, it then has a fairly good guess at which pads might relate to that device, or you can highlight the correct ones with the mouse. Double mouse click moves to the next device, right click dumps the part at the selected pads mid point, space rotates it 90 degrees.

So the workflow goes something like  Import Gerber->Import BOM->Scan Idents->Locate the parts->Check it all. It's a fairly slow job not helped by the rendering speed - scrolling is basically impossible. So using Mikes tool is never a bad idea it can turn a 2 hour job into a 10 minute one.

As a prior step it is probably a good idea to make sure you have predefined any "CDFs" required, these are the names and sizes/models of the various component packages you are going to use. Good practice would be to define a set of rules for part names and package names and then stick to them otherwise you can end up with the same part named slightly differently or with a different package name in different products and this actually gets quite annoying.

RVCad I'm pretty sure never worked so you can ignore it.

The training manual that comes with the machine talks you through a job start to finish, it is actually pretty good and I believe there is a copy on here somewhere...

If you have nicely defined fiducials the machine is good at recognizing, Auto-Fid correct actually works quite well, if they aren't so good however it can do some interesting things, size, colour, contrast and lighting all have an effect. Just using the crosshairs on the fid camera is not exactly a huge drawback as long as the camera calibration is OK, lining the nozzle up instead is trickier but dodges the calibration issue.

You can manually tweak placement of individual components inside RVPlace if they are not quite where you expect them to be but this tweaking is not persistent, however it is a useful thing to be able to do if for whatever reason your machine has a weird offset in a particular part of the place area.
RV Hardware / Re: First setup of my new RV1s - and a few general question
« Last post by pete_g on June 28, 2017, 09:03:20 PM »
Wow! Very many thanks indeed Mike, really excellent stuff & just what I needed! I think I'm starting to get a good appreciation of the RV machine now, so I should hopefully have a simple placement up and running in the next few days. Will report back as to how I get on. Will definitely order up one of those game controllers too.

Thanks again,
For Sale/Wanted, Suppliers / Reddish SM1500CXE Oven
« Last post by Aub on June 28, 2017, 11:32:33 AM »
I have a reddish SM1500CXE 3 zone oven for sale. Good Condition.
Originally Branded as BLUNDEL.
Open to Sensible Offers. Manchester Area.
For Sale/Wanted, Suppliers / RV4s with Feeders and spares for Sale
« Last post by Aub on June 28, 2017, 11:29:45 AM »
I have a RV4's for sale, good condition. 14 feeders various sizes and Vib.
Open to sensible Offers. Manchester Area.
RV Hardware / Re: First setup of my new RV1s - and a few general question
« Last post by Mike on June 28, 2017, 01:38:15 AM »
Another tip - there is a bug in RV place whereby the screen image of the PCB suddenly acquires an offset, so selecting parts for omit/unomit becomes difficult. Quitting RVPlace and re-running it & reloading the job fixes this, but is slow due to re-homing.
A quicker workaround is instead of quitting, load any other job, then re-load the original - this bypasses the re-homing procedure.

And if you've not already done so, get a joystick & set up as per pinned post. This will save you a ton of time when setting up.
RV Hardware / Re: First setup of my new RV1s - and a few general question
« Last post by Mike on June 28, 2017, 01:33:52 AM »
My plan was to generate a set of Gerbers for a very simple board with two or three 0805/0603 components, and rather than make an actual PCB, just print out the top copper layer 1:1 and stick this to a sheet of aluminium, and apply double sided tape to the top. Hopefully this should work without problems?
Fine, but be aware some printers may not have super-good accuracy, but good enough for experimenting with.
but I'm unclear which of the gerber files the RV software needs to work from, copper gerber + drill data?
Why would it care about drill data ? ;-)
I can see that the Fid camera is basically working, and I understand that I can (should?) just do a manual positioning over the fid locations anyway.
Without recent calibration (which is still under investigation) there will probably be offsets between the fid cam and nozzle, and these will vary with fid position, however these are consistent for a job, so if doing multiple panels then the fid cam is definitely worth using. For a 1-off panel, less so.
In either case start at the "nominal" fid posiitons, do a test place of the top-rightmost and bottom-leftmost parts (use  tag/omit), and tweak the fid positions by looking at the placement errors. I can generally get these bang on after 2-3 attempts, judging the offsets by eye & correcting.
after setting up fids to nominal positions with nozzle in Setup PCB, omit all, un-omit tl/br corner parts.
Use Fid correct, manually move to centre fids in camera, and test place the two parts with DS sticky tape.
Eyeball the offsets and add to the nominal postions when re-fidding.
e.g. if BL part is 10 thou high, and TR one is 25 to left, start with fid at centre of cam, and then move it  up 10 for the , 25 to the left for the second. Repeat until test placements are OK. Note offsets on a post-it & use the same offsets for each subsequent panel.

Don't bother with the auto fid correct unless you find you never have any offsets - just move it manually and "use current position"

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