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The camera tool can also be used to pickup.
I'd forgotten about tool 6. If we drill them out I'd probably take 3x type1/6 and 1x type2

I produced a number of brass inserts previously. I could possibly do some more but I
too am not a machinist. (although my current type 2 is turned up from Acetal at home).

Great, thanks.

e-mail sent.

The muppets at Digikey sent me tape, cut into ~10cm lengths when I ordered in tray.
I'm going to call them tomorrow but the easiest might be to just get a tray and
transfer them as it's only 100pcs. So if anyone has a spare tray, I would be most
grateful. All costs covered+.
Farnell use to sell them for a couple of quid but they're out of 14x14.

I probably have enough feeders overall. However, I'm missing a couple of bits:

I have a 3x12mm+3x16mm which is missing both the tape roller bar and upper reel rack
I have three 10x8mm units all missing their tape roller bars and one broken tape spool

More than willing to pay postage and appropriate extra beer tokens to get these up to scratch.

If location is East Anglia I could possibly help with additional transport if you want to grab more.

Are you going to use all the feeders?

As I seemed to miss the last batch of nozzles, I could be interested.
Which size would you have done? I'd take a couple of the each of the two smallest.

I'll update the ULP that's attached over the weekend. I think I may have a newer/smarter one
that deals with parts which aren't in the CDF library better. I'l go rummage.

RV gerber only displays pads if they are gerber "flashes".

I just opened a paste layer generated by Eagle into GerbV.
When I highlight a regular pad it comes up as a "Flashed Aperture"
When I highlight a 45degree pad it comes up as a "Polygon".

Not sure if this is something that can be fixed in the Eagle CAM processor.
It certainly supports a number of Gerber variants so it might be worth
trying something other the 273x.

Alternatively, use my transfer file creator Eagle ULP. It's not perfect but
it hops over the need to send gerber and bom to RVgerber. I have done
a board with a 45 degree TQFP this way and is the reason I never noticed
this issue myself 

Not fast, but faster than some "toys".

> I really expected there to be a common start point :-(

Does the difference between start points equate to roughly the distance between head and fidcam?
If so, this might make some sense as the arm would be in the same starting position.

or, just to throw in another complication:

Are we sure that the camera should be attached directly UNDER the head shaft?
I wonder whether the camera would be located accurately by the head shaft but actually be offset from it allowing for a larger camera.
Would a miniature camera of the size that you are using have been normal back in the day?

This thread is the main reason i'm logging in every day.
I'm sure there's a long list of people out there awaiting the next episode, like me.

My guess this is to do with pad centres and pad types.

That's wierd -  the post before last was by me, but has somehow been attributed to Arvydas

I'm guessing, as Admin, you hit the Edit button rather than the Quote button.

Totally forgot about the interlock (has anyone not bypassed this ? )

Hehe, mine is bypassed so I forgot it's only a slowdown not a stop.
I would suggest in series with the emergency stop but then the Z is likely to drop.
Breaking the step lines might not help in a overcurrent situation.

I'm just about redo all the power on mine as I'm still not happy with it.

Why not just put the relay output in series with the door interlock?