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Hi Roger,

There are stl files for T6's available to be printed on a Formlabs if you want to go in that direction. These need final drilling also.

>>>  as the smallest I can drill is approx 0.6mm

I'm thinking that if you can drill 0.6mm OK, then the 0.4mm for the T6 should be fine also?

Alan

I think you might have hit 'admin modify' rather than 'reply'. Any way to restore the original post?

A.

+ did anyone figure out the best way to put the whole take-up-spool / o-ring / axle floppy assembly thing back in the feeder body? We managed to fiddle these back in in the end, but I wouldn't call it a technique

I made up this hook out of heavy steel wire, so you can assemble with the spring bar at an angle, inside the side cheeks, then pull it out and rotate to the right position

>>> does this util suipport camera switching between the 2 cams on an RV1?

If I remember correctly, yes it does.

>>> It also slows down the speed of the stepper motors so that you can see whats going on..  has been useful a couple of times when trying to fix issues.

Ah, nice trick.

A.

Hi Mike, sorry to be slow replying - I've had a virus. The latest ones were actually done on a formlab. The little bumps are where the supports go and were clipped off. I only just twigged recently that the resin process needs the part to be held at an angle so the non-lasered / non-hardened resin runs off. Hence the asymmetric nature of the bumps and 'laminations'. As well as some gentle fettling, from memory, my formlabs trials still needed drilling out - claimed 3d printing accuracies are to my mind largely bs. Tool 1 to take a brass sleeve here:

http://anagram.net/nuts/Versatronics/Nozzles/STLs/Tool 1 for brass sleeve.stl

The x-section, designed to make drilling easier, is here:



I have at times been successful drilling both from the top and the bottom, but it's a process that could be improved.

Alan

Hi there,

Anyone have a blue 10x8 and/or 3x12 + 3x16 they want to sell?

Alan

I think I marginally prefer the PTFE sleeves so I just sent off an order for a complete set of nozzles including a MMU MELF one - all to fit PTFE. FYI I'm using nominal '10x12mm' PTFE tubing, reamed to 10.5mm to fit the pick-up head, and with the nozzles set up to take the 12mm dimension.

A.

Nice I like the labels a lot. Also interesting to hear the diffusers are not necessarily needed. Do you remember how many stops headroom you had on the lens? You left the shutter the same? I guess we should get some help from the AGC also. (BTW I couldn't get the RV4S WAT-508 spec from watec but I got the RV1S WAT-308A spec here:

http://anagram.net/nuts/Versatronics/Cameras/WAT-308A.PDF )

For my machine I just measured:

ambient lighting - 4 2/3 EV (iso 100)
no diffusers - 12 2/3 EV (i.e. 256x 8 stops over ambient)
1 diffuser - 9 EV (i.e. 12x 3.7 stops reduction)
2 diffusers - 8 2/3 EV (i.e. minor reduction, leaving 16x / 4 stops over ambient)

... which suggests you can get a long way to sorting out the lighting by just removing the diffusers. Also, two layers of diffuser don't seem to give any advantage (or surprisingly disadvantage) over one.

A useful reminder of the value of replacing the PSUs.

Alan

OK '5050 tool7', 3D printer version, SLA version, samsung point version glued / reamed / drilled & ready for testing - with a mix of body / PTFE / brass sleeve:

an update..

I managed to crunch the two rev C nozzles, pah. The 1st as I was pressing in the brass sleeve. For the second, I glued in a PTFE sleeve and then reamed the inside diameter off centre. As the famous Canadian says ... it never ends . The idea of making the ends bigger and then turning to exact size, won't work I think as this new SLA material is more detailed but slightly more bendy.

Faster than expected though I have rev D: 1 'tool 7' o-ring style sized for 5050 LEDs / 2 bases for Samsung nozzles / two more variations of tool 1 - one with 'body' sleeve supposedly printed exact size and one to be reamed as usual. Of course, the last two need the nozzles drilled out to size, but I think I've nailed that. Also a reaming fixture / a sleeve to screen the main camera LED ring from the LEDs / a camera adaptor should I ever get round to calibration.



I'll keep you posted...as ever if anyone else wants to test these let me know...the more testing, the better.

Alan

>>> Have you made a programmable current driver for your boards? Looks very tidy.

An LT3030 - the '12V' supplies looked a bit iffy.

>>> I already bought leds Mike used but not gotten around to making the boards yet.

I think either approach will be a big improvement. It could be that Mike's use of SMT white LEDs for the main ring will be better. If I ever re-spin I might make suitable for white LEDs as well and make the current adjustment range a bit more accommodating.

>>> What camera is on your RV1S?

Watec WAT-308A with a COSMICAR/Pentax 16mm f1.4 TV lens. From memory, it goes to F16 and takes 27 x 0.5 filters - although the LED ring screws neatly into the filter threads. Mine was set at F8 which (with 8x increase of LED light output from 6EV to 9EV) implies that if necessary I would need to stop down to F16 and add a ND4 filter. There's a space about 42dx3.5 under the diffusers to fit an ND filter if necessary. Without actually trying it yet, I'm guessing that the adjustment can be made in software though. Also, the camera itself has 18dB AGC.

Inspired by Mike, I've also done a lighting upgrade too and I'm reasonably happy with it. It's slightly different from Mike's in that I chose to keep using 5mm LEDs for the main camera ring and also to interleave red and white LEDs - something about the camera response and the look of the thing. That may be folly. I measure about 8x the ambient light level from each ring and so should be fairly immune to ambient. You might want brighter if you have the luxury of real sunlight. I have not tested the CDFs / re-calibrated the cameras / adjusted the camera response yet. Re the latter, there's one more stop down on my RV1S lens which may do it or I might need a ND filter - which I found you can get OK in the right diameter. I have spare PCBs if anyone wants. Found btw that the reason my fid cam light was flickery was the gnd wire had a break in it where it squeezed passed the camera.

A.




Bigger images here:

http://anagram.net/nuts/Versatronics/Cameras/

We'll get there eventually

@spiyda - is this it for the Samsung base?

http://anagram.net/nuts/Versatronics/Nozzles/RVT%20nozzle%20for%20Samsung%20tips.pdf

Exactly 3mm hole? Samsung boss just glues onto flat?

A.

>>> Your No 1 nozzle has now placed a thousand components and seems to be holding up OK

Nice, did you feel the need to flatten the business end?

>>> Not only that they knock off, but that the hole is re-usable (if that makes sense)

I could make up some blanks for Samsung nozzles for the in the next run - which I'm planning on sending in over the next day or so. Do you have a preference re brass sleeve, PTFE sleeve or sleeve made of body material (I saw some chat someway back that no-sleeve works fine).

BTW most recent test:

http://anagram.net/nuts/Versatronics/Nozzles/1316247660609.bmp

- better detail, but material is a bit more flexible. I'll turn the ends and mount them up.

Alan

BTW anyone noticed this before - my bed has a 1mm+ bow in it:

http://anagram.net/nuts/Versatronics/2018-02-05%2017.26.42%20a.jpg

A.